Des Alto Amo El Primero Rioja 2020
- 91
- $36
- Drink by: 2025-2031
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This attractive Rioja, different from those tired, old-fashioned oak-sodden monsters, is very much reliant on its fruit – one parcel of Garnacha (75% of the wine) and one of old bush vine Tempranillo (the remaining 25%). Around 30% whole bunches are used in the fermentation, after which there is a short maceration on skins before the wine is pressed to older French oak barriques. The nose exhibits notes of roast meats, a hint of vanilla, dark berries, some earth, chocolate, soy, miso and beef stock. A savoury style, most appealing and definitely worth checking out, with an underlying flick of acidity, soft yet sleek tannins and medium length. Enjoy any time from now for the next half dozen years. Give it a crack with roast lamb.
Ken was born and bred in Brisbane, Queensland. He had a non-trendy, perfectly happy childhood, in a family convinced alcohol meant instant condemnation to Hades. But a break fishing on the Great Barrier Reef, and some good wine, started a serious obsession that eventually took over. It did not stop Ken being chastised later for drinking Pol champagne, disgusted he’d drink anything made by a Cambodian dictator. Now, Ken mostly writes on wine, champagne and spirits for various newspapers, magazines and books, but is perhaps best known for his work in The Courier Mail. He also has a little sideline writing on cigars, fishing, travel and food. When not writing, fly-fishing for trout in NZ or bonefish on the flats of Cuba, travelling or smoking cigars, he is no doubt following a variety of sporting teams – the occasionally glorious Queensland Reds rugby, the dysfunctional Washington Redskins, the dodgy Arsenal and especially revels in the world restored to its proper axis with the return of the Ashes to their rightful home.
