Evan Evans Fiano 2023
- 93
- $28
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There’s a new school vibe here. It’s playful with a side of serious. Gentle aromas of green apple cider, brine, green pear, fennel, and slithered almonds. The mix of salty savouriness and green fruits makes it moreish and gratifying. Some leesy notes emerge with air and temperature, adding a lovely autolytic underlay to round it out; namely a pastry dough note with apple aromas. The palate is restrained, pithy and intriguing with that apple cider and fermented vegetable edge. Green pear, apple, lime leaf, fennel, and brine sit within a pillowy-but-clean texture from the lees. Brine drives the finish, melding with green apple and pear notes to bring a saline and green-fruited close. Some time in the glass allows all of the above to gel making for a delicious wine. This won’t be everyone’s cup of Fiano, but it’s packed with interest and a unique aesthetic making for a really interesting drink, especially for $28.
Tom Kline is a wine writer, reviewer, presenter, and educator based in Victoria, Australia. He is the Australian correspondent for the internationally respected publications Jasper Morris Inside Burgundy and Jane Anson Inside Bordeaux, where he highlights the top tier of Australian wine for a global audience. Tom also writes for leading outlets including Decanter (UK), Wine Spectator (US), and Halliday Magazine, among others. An experienced wine show judge and WSET educator, he has authored several consumer-focused wine courses aimed at making wine more accessible and engaging. In 2023, Tom was awarded Best Published Feature Article or Wine Column at the prestigious Wine Communicator Awards, presented by Wine Communicators of Australia.
