Geoff Merrill Wines Henley McLaren Vale Shiraz 2009

Once, we regularly saw aged Australian reds being released. Now, not so regular and they stand out. I would argue that Henley ’09 would have stood out as a youngster and that further time in bottle has only improved its good looks, its class. Henley saw 36 months in French oak according to the back label. I braced myself for a full-on oak attack. What I tasted was a plush, gentle unfolding of a McLaren Vale Shiraz with the kind of poise and confidence that comes with age. The generous fruit-oak relationship plays out before you in dark fruits, blueberry, plum, cinnamon, earth and cedar. Henley builds on that base with some savoury, pan forte notes, liqueur cherry and earth. It’s complex and quite the opposite of what you might expect from a hot year such as 2009 in the Vale. The viticulturist who grew the fruit should be proud. Boasts good length too as the flavours go on and on. And there’s more time ahead should you choose to cellar further.