Henschke The Rose Grower 2019
- 93
- $50
- Drink by: 2022-2037
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Eden Valley Nebbiolo may not be the name on everyone’s lips but the Henschkes have made a promising start to ensuring this unlikely combination gains widespread acceptance. The name comes from a number of possible sources – rose petals is often used as a descriptor for Nebb. The name, Nebbiolo, refers to the fog found in Piedmont, which also happens where they have planted this variety on “rocky soils on an elevated foggy north facing slope at the source of the North Para River, at the top of the range overlooking the village of Eden Valley”. Finally, the property was once run as a dairy by the Roesler family and Roesler, in German, means rose grower. What else could you call it? The wine is not actually 100% Nebbiolo, containing 7% Barbera (Italian regulators would be having a fit). Viticulture is by a combination of organic and biodynamic practices. The wine spent a whopping 119 days on skins and was matured in seasoned French hogsheads for 20 months. The colour is a pleasing bronze crimson. A lovely gentle style of wine, restrained and subtle. Notes of spices, dark berries, warm earth and florals, as well as some roast meats. The palate is seamless and offers a creamy supple texture with excellent length and fine tannins. I’d be inclined to leave it for at least three to four years before opening one, but after that, this wine should give pleasure for at least fifteen years.
Ken was born and bred in Brisbane, Queensland. He had a non-trendy, perfectly happy childhood, in a family convinced alcohol meant instant condemnation to Hades. But a break fishing on the Great Barrier Reef, and some good wine, started a serious obsession that eventually took over. It did not stop Ken being chastised later for drinking Pol champagne, disgusted he’d drink anything made by a Cambodian dictator. Now, Ken mostly writes on wine, champagne and spirits for various newspapers, magazines and books, but is perhaps best known for his work in The Courier Mail. He also has a little sideline writing on cigars, fishing, travel and food. When not writing, fly-fishing for trout in NZ or bonefish on the flats of Cuba, travelling or smoking cigars, he is no doubt following a variety of sporting teams – the occasionally glorious Queensland Reds rugby, the dysfunctional Washington Redskins, the dodgy Arsenal and especially revels in the world restored to its proper axis with the return of the Ashes to their rightful home.
