Hewitson The Mad Hatter Shiraz 2023

Recognisably, reassuringly, Barossa from the first scent of lifted Aussie bush notes, earth and bay leaf matched to ripe black fruits, anise and woody oak spice. The ’23 vintage was a tough one, wet and cool, so it is definitely reassuring to see The Mad Hatter in fine form with its usual mix of engaging warmth and concentrated flavour.  The palate rolls out with depth, well-integrated, smooth and textural. Sweet fruited with briar, earth, chocolate and a dash of dried herbs and sage across the middle palate and you have some enjoyable drinking now with the added bonus of also hanging on to it for a while. Hard choice.