Hugh Hamilton Black Ops Shiraz Saperavi 2020
- 92
- $35
- Drink by: 2021-2030
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“A wine for KGB, CIA and civilians.” I’ll bet that seemed like a good idea late at night over a few bottles of this big, bold red. And not to rain on any parades, of course, but wasn’t the KBG disbanded (or at least transformed) thirty years ago? No matter.
Purply black. A cornucopia of aromas flood out of the glass – florals, spices, leather, blackberries, bergamot, roast meats, dry herbs, chocolate and tar. Powerful but with a really pleasing slippery texture. Fine though ever so slightly gritty tannins towards the end of the palate, which exhibits decent length. This is big, bold and very well done. A curious and rarely seen blend, but one which works well. Expect to see more.
Ken was born and bred in Brisbane, Queensland. He had a non-trendy, perfectly happy childhood, in a family convinced alcohol meant instant condemnation to Hades. But a break fishing on the Great Barrier Reef, and some good wine, started a serious obsession that eventually took over. It did not stop Ken being chastised later for drinking Pol champagne, disgusted he’d drink anything made by a Cambodian dictator. Now, Ken mostly writes on wine, champagne and spirits for various newspapers, magazines and books, but is perhaps best known for his work in The Courier Mail. He also has a little sideline writing on cigars, fishing, travel and food. When not writing, fly-fishing for trout in NZ or bonefish on the flats of Cuba, travelling or smoking cigars, he is no doubt following a variety of sporting teams – the occasionally glorious Queensland Reds rugby, the dysfunctional Washington Redskins, the dodgy Arsenal and especially revels in the world restored to its proper axis with the return of the Ashes to their rightful home.
