Kym Tolley The Last Emperor Cabernet Shiraz 2021
- 97
- $125
- Drink by: 2026-2056
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I guess that if you are starting a new project to make wine, then kicking off in one of the very best vintages for a long time is not the worst idea. This is a stunning debut. The blend is 52% Cabernet and 48% Shiraz. Inky dark maroon with a rim that is nearly as opaque, there is a gorgeous nose here. Dense but dancing, the complexity is already evident. We have notes of blackberries, chocolate, mocha, plums, coffee beans, licorice and cassis. A silky texture and even silkier tannins, the wine is well focused, finely balanced, and with such great length. An utterly majestic red that will provide immense pleasure over the next two to three decades. This should be on the bucket list.
Ken was born and bred in Brisbane, Queensland. He had a non-trendy, perfectly happy childhood, in a family convinced alcohol meant instant condemnation to Hades. But a break fishing on the Great Barrier Reef, and some good wine, started a serious obsession that eventually took over. It did not stop Ken being chastised later for drinking Pol champagne, disgusted he’d drink anything made by a Cambodian dictator. Now, Ken mostly writes on wine, champagne and spirits for various newspapers, magazines and books, but is perhaps best known for his work in The Courier Mail. He also has a little sideline writing on cigars, fishing, travel and food. When not writing, fly-fishing for trout in NZ or bonefish on the flats of Cuba, travelling or smoking cigars, he is no doubt following a variety of sporting teams – the occasionally glorious Queensland Reds rugby, the dysfunctional Washington Redskins, the dodgy Arsenal and especially revels in the world restored to its proper axis with the return of the Ashes to their rightful home.
