Longview Hen’s Teeth Shiraz 2018
- 94
- $40
- Drink by: 2022-2032
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Adelaide Hills gets all manner of accolades for a number of the varieties grown there, but far too many winelovers ignore their glorious Shiraz (or sometimes, Syrah, if the winery wants to emphasise the connection to the Rhône Valley in France). Undoubtedly, the Shiraz made here does have more in common with some of the best hailing from the Rhône, with their elegance and complexity, than they do with the big, bold and rich examples from the Barossa and McLaren Vale (not that there is anything wrong with those wines). This is a compelling example of that.
The name, ‘Hen’s Teeth’, is a gentle reminder that while many may think great Hills Shiraz is rare. Anyway, this one is a cracker. Made from Estate fruit from their Macclesfield vineyards, the grapes are crushed, before undergoing a cool fermentation over 10 days. There is 20% in tank for malo, and the remainder in hogsheads. Maturation, which is for fifteen months, is in French oak hogsheads, of which 20% are new, 30% 2nd use and the rest a mix of 3rd and 4th use.
The wine is deep maroon in colour. A finely crafted style, it opens with hints of aniseed, dry herbs, leather, warm earth and tobacco leaves. This is a complex and refined Shiraz, seamless on the palate and there is no question that the team has taken advantage of an excellent vintage for the region. The texture is delightfully creamy and there is seriously impressive length here plus lots of tannins, but they are very fine. For me, ideal with a rare steak now but it will also handle a decade in the cellar with ease. Excellent value.
Ken was born and bred in Brisbane, Queensland. He had a non-trendy, perfectly happy childhood, in a family convinced alcohol meant instant condemnation to Hades. But a break fishing on the Great Barrier Reef, and some good wine, started a serious obsession that eventually took over. It did not stop Ken being chastised later for drinking Pol champagne, disgusted he’d drink anything made by a Cambodian dictator. Now, Ken mostly writes on wine, champagne and spirits for various newspapers, magazines and books, but is perhaps best known for his work in The Courier Mail. He also has a little sideline writing on cigars, fishing, travel and food. When not writing, fly-fishing for trout in NZ or bonefish on the flats of Cuba, travelling or smoking cigars, he is no doubt following a variety of sporting teams – the occasionally glorious Queensland Reds rugby, the dysfunctional Washington Redskins, the dodgy Arsenal and especially revels in the world restored to its proper axis with the return of the Ashes to their rightful home.
