Marnong Estate Montepulciano 2025

The colour is the first clue. A deep, saturated ruby that promises generosity long before the glass reaches your nose. Yet, like much of Marnong’s range, first impressions only tell part of the story. Montepulciano is planted on one of the estate’s heavier blocks, where very low yields build considerable density into the fruit. In the winery, Alex works against any tendency towards excess. The fruit is hand-picked, fully destemmed and handled with a light touch during fermentation before maturing predominantly in larger-format oak, preserving the variety’s dark-fruited character rather than burying it beneath timber. The nose opens with charcoal, wood smoke and damp bark before blueberry, blackcurrant and satsuma plum emerge from the glass. Hibiscus adds a floral lift, while wild berries and winter woodland lend an earthy, almost nostalgic quality. It feels like the first walk through a forest after autumn rain, where smoke, wet timber and cold earth linger together in the air. The palate delivers exactly what the colour promises. Dark fruit arrives first, broad and ripe, almost brushing against Amarone in its concentration, before Montepulciano’s thick skins begin to assert themselves through the middle. Grainy tannins gather around the fruit, bringing structure and savouriness, while the acidity keeps the wine moving. The finish catches at the back of the throat like a second thought, a final trace of rusticity after the fruit has made its entrance. This is not a wine chasing polish. Its appeal lies in its warmth, its dark fruit and the faintly untamed character running underneath. Despite the depth of colour and ripeness, it never becomes clunky. I imagined it with wild boar ragù or another salty, gamey dish, though the roast lamb cutlets, kale and sweet potato that worked so beautifully with the Sangiovese proved less convincing here. What impressed me most was its honesty. This is Montepulciano allowed to remain generous, grainy and slightly wild, the sort of bottle that belongs on a table where nobody is studying the wine too closely until they realise the glass is empty.

Liinaa Berry

Liinaa Berry is a Melbourne-based wine critic and consultant with over a decade of experience as a sommelier and wine buyer across Australia and around the world where she has built award-winning wine programs and championed independent producers with conviction. Now focused on reviewing and writing, Liinaa brings a floor-trained palate and commercial insight to her assessments. She is also the Melbourne Ambassador for Star Wine List and serves on the committee of Sommeliers Australia. An advocate for site-driven wines and thoughtful farming, Liinaa is particularly drawn to producers who articulate a clear sense of place. Her tasting philosophy centres on structure, balance and context — always asking not just how a wine tastes, but why it matters.