O’Leary Walker Doctor’s Cut Riesling 2022
- 97
- $40
- Drink by: 2023-2043
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From a Clare vineyard in the Polish Hill River sub-region, owned by a couple of Adelaide heart surgeons, the guys only make this wine in top vintages. 2022 is most certainly that. This is stunning stuff. A limpid lemon, the nose is all citrus – lemons and limes. Think a handful of fresh kaffir lime leaves. This is backed by spices and wet river stones. Finely balanced, squeaky clean, fresh and with amazing length, this is a brilliant Riesling. Fine, vibrant acidity helps drive the wine. It also has such incredible length and yet the intensity of flavour is maintained for the full journey. Wonderful. This will sail through the next 15 to 20 years in good cellars.
Ken was born and bred in Brisbane, Queensland. He had a non-trendy, perfectly happy childhood, in a family convinced alcohol meant instant condemnation to Hades. But a break fishing on the Great Barrier Reef, and some good wine, started a serious obsession that eventually took over. It did not stop Ken being chastised later for drinking Pol champagne, disgusted he’d drink anything made by a Cambodian dictator. Now, Ken mostly writes on wine, champagne and spirits for various newspapers, magazines and books, but is perhaps best known for his work in The Courier Mail. He also has a little sideline writing on cigars, fishing, travel and food. When not writing, fly-fishing for trout in NZ or bonefish on the flats of Cuba, travelling or smoking cigars, he is no doubt following a variety of sporting teams – the occasionally glorious Queensland Reds rugby, the dysfunctional Washington Redskins, the dodgy Arsenal and especially revels in the world restored to its proper axis with the return of the Ashes to their rightful home.
