O’Leary Walker Polish Hill River Riesling 2022
- 96
- $30
- Drink by: 2022-2036
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What an extraordinary wine! Speaks of a great vintage, a great grape variety, and a special bit of dirt high in the Clare Valley – loam over sandstone and slate – where Riesling shines. Striking scent of lemon blossom, citrus, red apple, orange peel, honey and bergamot – alive and vital. A world of citrus awaits on the palate: grapefruit pith, citrus zest, lemony and intense. Polish Hill River is noted for its spice. It’s here, wrapped around a steel, minerally, lasting acidity. Taut as a drum but with great depth. Love the mouth-watering pithiness to finish that works the tastebuds, temptingly so. Where are freshly shucked oysters when you need them? Don’t overchill if you are planning to open a bottle soon, it will promote the youthful, firm acidity and demote the delicate fruits and aromatic spice. Better still, leave it for a little while . . . if you can.
Jeni Port is one of Australia’s top wine communicators. Based in Melbourne, Jeni created the first wine column in the (then) Sun News-Pictorial before moving over to The Age and becoming that paper’s longest-serving wine writer. Over the years she has written for most Australian wine magazines and these days calls WinePilot home. She is also a Tasting Panel member on the Halliday Wine Companion. She was named Wine Communicator of the Year and Legend of the Melbourne Food and Wine Festival in 2014 and in 2018 Legend of the Vine. She is a founding board member of Australian Women In Wine and is the co-deputy chair of Australia’s Wine List of the Year Awards and China’s Wine List of the Year Awards.
