Oliver’s Taranga Mencia 2020
- 93
- $35
- Drink by: 2021-2026
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This gorgeous red grape may find itself far from its Spanish homeland but you’d never know it. From this wine, you’d swear the variety had been making stunning wines here for centuries. There are very few Aussie examples of this variety but after seeing this one, you have to ask why. Just their second vintage for Mencia and they have already nailed it. Another wine from the Small Batch program. As for the story, this was the year ‘Wine dog Tex got a massive lovegrass dreadlock on his head and we had to shave him.’ Perhaps Marj put it there.
Deep purple colour with lovely lifted aromatics. A note of blueberry is first to emerge, followed by blackcurrants, black cherries and chocolate. There is a plushness throughout, such that you can’t help but think that this variety must have been created specifically for McLaren Vale. Seamless, mouthcoating but very fine and silky tannins, impressive length and immaculate balance. Delicious now but with a future. So much to like about this wine. I’ve not seen a better local version.
Ken was born and bred in Brisbane, Queensland. He had a non-trendy, perfectly happy childhood, in a family convinced alcohol meant instant condemnation to Hades. But a break fishing on the Great Barrier Reef, and some good wine, started a serious obsession that eventually took over. It did not stop Ken being chastised later for drinking Pol champagne, disgusted he’d drink anything made by a Cambodian dictator. Now, Ken mostly writes on wine, champagne and spirits for various newspapers, magazines and books, but is perhaps best known for his work in The Courier Mail. He also has a little sideline writing on cigars, fishing, travel and food. When not writing, fly-fishing for trout in NZ or bonefish on the flats of Cuba, travelling or smoking cigars, he is no doubt following a variety of sporting teams – the occasionally glorious Queensland Reds rugby, the dysfunctional Washington Redskins, the dodgy Arsenal and especially revels in the world restored to its proper axis with the return of the Ashes to their rightful home.
