Ox Hardy Grenache 2020

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The last five or ten years have seen the range of Australian grenache styles explode in every possible direction, from delicate, perfumed almost pinot noir like wines to the more explosive, sweet fruit styles. This wine from Andrew “Ox” Hardy is an each-way bet with some perfumed subtlety thanks to stalks in the ferment supported by a more typically rich, fleshy-fruited backbone. It opens up with some delicacy – floral, spicy red fruits that are pretty and engaging – raspberry and dried strawberry too. But then it builds, and builds, and builds with leathery, dark berry fruit flavours in a full-bodied but still quite elegant style with white pepper and stalks coming through right on a lingering finish. It’s a good example of why less is often more for grenache, and with its spicy side would be well suited to a hearty Hungarian Goulash.