Passel Estate Margaret River Shiraz 2017

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The 2017 vintage in Margaret River wasn’t easy, cool for the most part with wet weather; it was saved largely by an Indian summer. It’s holding quite well for a five-year-old from a tough vintage, but I wouldn’t hold it for another five. Enjoy now. The maker refers to the fruit for this wine as “old vine” shiraz, although no age is given. It certainly reveals fair depth and concentration in the fruit department. Aromas of black cherry, plum, nutmeg, cassia bark, earth-gravel and a touch of fungal-truffle. Intriguing. There’s a strong line of savouriness in prune, leather and earth running across the palate accompanied by roasting herbs, spices, dark chocolate. Ten months in French oak (30% new) brings a toasty, nuttiness to the wine, but it remains well-integrated. Tannins are equally savoury and dense. In short, there’s a lot happening in this Marg’s shiraz. The grape is increasingly a rare phenomenon in the region, give it a go.

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