Rowlee Single Vineyard Fumé Blanc 2023

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Fumé Blanc – ‘smoky white’ – was a big selling wine style in the 1980s and 90s. Good to see it still has traction with drinkers contributing an extra layer of flavour to Sauvignon Blanc. A portion of this ’23 Orange Sauvignon Blanc was fermented in seasoned French oak. It imparts a gentle, discreet toasty smokiness melding with lemongrass, pea shoot, dill, grapefruit, lime and asparagus. There’s a steady winemaking hand on the tiller with just enough texture to elevate the wines and just enough cut and bite of acidity to finish with a real snap of freshness.

Jeni Port
Wine critic at Winepilot

Jeni Port is one of Australia’s top wine communicators. Based in Melbourne, Jeni created the first wine column in the (then) Sun News-Pictorial before moving over to The Age and becoming that paper’s longest-serving wine writer. Over the years she has written for most Australian wine magazines and these days calls WinePilot home. She is also a Tasting Panel member on the Halliday Wine Companion. She was named Wine Communicator of the Year and Legend of the Melbourne Food and Wine Festival in 2014 and in 2018 Legend of the Vine. She is a founding board member of Australian Women In Wine and is the co-deputy chair of Australia’s Wine List of the Year Awards and China’s Wine List of the Year Awards.

Wine writer and critic
Pilot
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