Penfolds Bin 23 Pinot Noir 2024
- 93
- $55
- Drink by: 2025-2025
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The fruit here is sourced from Tasmania and maturation is in French oak barriques, 30% of which were new, with a dribble – 1.5% – spending time in Italian cocciopesto amphorae. A crimson/purple hue, there is an initial hint of stemminess, suggesting that the winemakers have incorporated a portion of whole bunches. The nose offers raspberries, truffles, freshly unearthed beetroots, dried herbs, plums, a touch of earth, smoked meats and a pleasing savouriness. A Pinot of weight and density, of length and intensity. This is most impressive with extra weight and complexity, a welcome transformation from the early, albeit very pleasant, incarnations. The wine finishes with abundant tannins and surely has everything in place for the next six to ten years. One of the best Bin 23s to date.
Ken was born and bred in Brisbane, Queensland. He had a non-trendy, perfectly happy childhood, in a family convinced alcohol meant instant condemnation to Hades. But a break fishing on the Great Barrier Reef, and some good wine, started a serious obsession that eventually took over. It did not stop Ken being chastised later for drinking Pol champagne, disgusted he’d drink anything made by a Cambodian dictator. Now, Ken mostly writes on wine, champagne and spirits for various newspapers, magazines and books, but is perhaps best known for his work in The Courier Mail. He also has a little sideline writing on cigars, fishing, travel and food. When not writing, fly-fishing for trout in NZ or bonefish on the flats of Cuba, travelling or smoking cigars, he is no doubt following a variety of sporting teams – the occasionally glorious Queensland Reds rugby, the dysfunctional Washington Redskins, the dodgy Arsenal and especially revels in the world restored to its proper axis with the return of the Ashes to their rightful home.
