Penfolds RWT Bin 798 Barossa Valley Shiraz 2023
- 97
- $220
- Drink by: 2025-2050
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Penfolds’ non-Grange Barossa Shiraz. 100% French oak, all hogsheads, with 69% new, the remaining 31% one-year-old, this cracking red certainly exceeds what the vintage might be expected to offer. A very dark purple magenta, plenty of oak here, but early days and all is proceeding according to plan. Along with those vanillin notes on the nose, we have a touch of toast, dark chocolate, espresso, mocha, aniseed, bay leaves, a burst of ripe raspberries, blackberries and root vegetables. There are spices – notably a whiff of black pepper and nutmeg. So young, time will very much be to its benefit. Anyone leaving this wine in the cellar for the next five to six years before opening will reap the rewards. A move to the palate sees the wine give the impression of being more approachable than at first it seems – time is the key here. The wine is seamless, of medium weight and good length, with fine tannins and a finish which lingers beautifully, with roasted coffee notes. This is a very fine RWT. A twenty to twenty-five year proposition.
Ken was born and bred in Brisbane, Queensland. He had a non-trendy, perfectly happy childhood, in a family convinced alcohol meant instant condemnation to Hades. But a break fishing on the Great Barrier Reef, and some good wine, started a serious obsession that eventually took over. It did not stop Ken being chastised later for drinking Pol champagne, disgusted he’d drink anything made by a Cambodian dictator. Now, Ken mostly writes on wine, champagne and spirits for various newspapers, magazines and books, but is perhaps best known for his work in The Courier Mail. He also has a little sideline writing on cigars, fishing, travel and food. When not writing, fly-fishing for trout in NZ or bonefish on the flats of Cuba, travelling or smoking cigars, he is no doubt following a variety of sporting teams – the occasionally glorious Queensland Reds rugby, the dysfunctional Washington Redskins, the dodgy Arsenal and especially revels in the world restored to its proper axis with the return of the Ashes to their rightful home.
