Penfolds Yattarna Chardonnay 2023

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An exercise in cool restraint. Opens with enticing spice-fueled aromatics and citrus with red apple, pear, creamy cashews and brine. Offers super fine layers of taut fruit matched to lemon balm, gentle oak spice and earthy mineral notes. This has the makings of a real keeper with a solid base line of phenolic extract and fine line acidity. It’s keeping its cards close to its vinous chest which has tended to be the case with many of the ’23 wines coming through. It’s not going to show all quite so soon but rather its building blocks, impressive, have been laid and there’s some exceptional drinking ahead.

Jeni Port
Wine critic at Winepilot

Jeni Port is one of Australia’s top wine communicators. Based in Melbourne, Jeni created the first wine column in the (then) Sun News-Pictorial before moving over to The Age and becoming that paper’s longest-serving wine writer. Over the years she has written for most Australian wine magazines and these days calls WinePilot home. She is also a Tasting Panel member on the Halliday Wine Companion. She was named Wine Communicator of the Year and Legend of the Melbourne Food and Wine Festival in 2014 and in 2018 Legend of the Vine. She is a founding board member of Australian Women In Wine and is the co-deputy chair of Australia’s Wine List of the Year Awards and China’s Wine List of the Year Awards.

Wine writer and critic
Pilot
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