Petaluma Evans Coonawarra 2021

Bay leaf rises from the glass with savoury appeal, supported by blackcurrant, pimiento, dried eucalyptus and plum sauce; a swirl opens up earth and gravelly tones beneath. The appearance suggests inkiness, but the palate has lift and buoyancy to go with the intensity. Bay leaf, blackcurrant and plum glide through the mouth with mint and eucalyptus dancing at the edges, dark chocolate and coffee grounds adding bitterness and bite. The tannins are firm and grainy, a good charge of acidity cooling and cleansing the back palate as the wine carries long — mint lingering through the finish in a pleasing retronasal drift. A very compelling release: the balance and complexity here suggest real ageing potential, and it’s already drinking well.