Pipan Steel Tesoro 2018


Paula Pipan makes some of the finest examples of Australian Nebbiolo in the Alpine Valleys. And I’m heartened to see how far Nebbiolo has gone since I’ve moved from Italy to Australia in 2010. Anise seeds, bitter orange, tar, macerated rose petals, wild red berries, terracotta, black liquorice, mountains herbs. This “treasure” (Tesoro) of Nebbiolo, is a blend of the clones X, IX and VII, the amount of each changes every year. Paula here blends (and prefers to talk about) distinguished clones rather that single blocks. Savoury, firm tannins. Under her guidance however those tannins are never harsh, rather well integrated thanks to the longer time on skins, six weeks in total. A sweet and sour edge, and a rather conservative mid palate, leaves space to a persistent, ethereal and tonic finish with a touch of anise seeds and cardamom. Makes you salivate for a Risotto al Tartufo or/and a Brasato (braised beef). I’m seriously hungry now.