Saltram Winemaker’s Selection Fiano 2020

Good to see the bigger players dipping into the well of alternative varieties, even if only in a small way to begin. We expect that from the smaller boutiques, but when operations like Saltram step up and get it right, then you know that a grape like Fiano, until now slightly obscure to most Aussie winelovers, is set for the mainstream. The fruit for this wine was sourced from Saltram’s own vineyard near Lyndoch, at the southern end of the Barossa Valley. The Fiano was grafted onto what had been Cabernet rootstocks, originally planted in 1999.

This forms part of the Winemaker’s Selection series and winemaker Alex MacKenzie is on record for noting that Fiano is well suited to the Barossa, making ‘complex, aromatic and textured wines’. So far, so good. The wine spent five months in tank on lees and has a colour reminiscent of the sun at midday. The nose exhibits nuts, almonds, citrus notes, florals, stonefruit and orange rind characters. Good concentration, crisp acidity, a supple texture and a wine offering moderate length. Expect to see more Fiano from both the Barossa and Saltram.