Saltram Winemaker’s Selection Fiano 2020
- 90
- $25
- Drink by: 2021-2022
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Good to see the bigger players dipping into the well of alternative varieties, even if only in a small way to begin. We expect that from the smaller boutiques, but when operations like Saltram step up and get it right, then you know that a grape like Fiano, until now slightly obscure to most Aussie winelovers, is set for the mainstream. The fruit for this wine was sourced from Saltram’s own vineyard near Lyndoch, at the southern end of the Barossa Valley. The Fiano was grafted onto what had been Cabernet rootstocks, originally planted in 1999.
This forms part of the Winemaker’s Selection series and winemaker Alex MacKenzie is on record for noting that Fiano is well suited to the Barossa, making ‘complex, aromatic and textured wines’. So far, so good. The wine spent five months in tank on lees and has a colour reminiscent of the sun at midday. The nose exhibits nuts, almonds, citrus notes, florals, stonefruit and orange rind characters. Good concentration, crisp acidity, a supple texture and a wine offering moderate length. Expect to see more Fiano from both the Barossa and Saltram.
Ken was born and bred in Brisbane, Queensland. He had a non-trendy, perfectly happy childhood, in a family convinced alcohol meant instant condemnation to Hades. But a break fishing on the Great Barrier Reef, and some good wine, started a serious obsession that eventually took over. It did not stop Ken being chastised later for drinking Pol champagne, disgusted he’d drink anything made by a Cambodian dictator. Now, Ken mostly writes on wine, champagne and spirits for various newspapers, magazines and books, but is perhaps best known for his work in The Courier Mail. He also has a little sideline writing on cigars, fishing, travel and food. When not writing, fly-fishing for trout in NZ or bonefish on the flats of Cuba, travelling or smoking cigars, he is no doubt following a variety of sporting teams – the occasionally glorious Queensland Reds rugby, the dysfunctional Washington Redskins, the dodgy Arsenal and especially revels in the world restored to its proper axis with the return of the Ashes to their rightful home.
