Scarborough The Obsessive Chardonnay 2023

Ah the struck match reduction, it always grabs one’s attention. Importantly, however, like all things in wine it should season rather than smother. Such is the case here as said struck match quickly yields to nectarine, salted pastry dough, vanilla, yellow apple, quince. There’s some gentle grilled almond, clotted cream and citrus preserves in the background adding interest. The palate has a great fulsome texture that’s lifted by a cut of stone fruit drive in the form of grilled nectarine and peach skin, with cedar, preserved lemon, flint and almond in support. Good phenolic structure here, putting a chalky frame around it all to carry it to good length. With this level of complexity, texture, length and structure on offer, $45 makes this brilliant value.