Swinney Farvie Grenache 2024

Wine critics are completely unbiased and have absolutely no favourites at all. First line of the wine writers’ creed. Unfortunately, despite our best intentions, it really isn’t true. There are always some samples which, when they arrive for tasting, bring a smile of anticipated pleasure. Even though Swinney have only been on the scene for the equivalent of a drop in the vinous ocean, they have established a reputation as one of the most exciting producers in the country. The latest releases will simply entrench this even further. With all the attention focused on Grenache from the warmer South Australian regions, it may seem odd that one of our very best hails from the far distant Frankland River. This is a single vineyard wine from the Wilson’s Pool Vineyard, picked from dry grown, bush vines. Winemaker, Robert Mann, includes 60% whole bunches in the ferment. The wine spent ten days on skins before pressing to large format, older French oak, where it spent eleven months maturing. A gleaming crimson/ruby hue, the complexity in this wine is immediately evident. The aromas weave through notes of cherries, warm earth, mulberries, fresh beetroot, kirsch, truffles, plums and a touch of florals and orange rind. There is an appealing savouriness here, but giving the wine time in the glass will be to its advantage. Supple and seamless, there is a fine line of acidity maintained throughout and great length here. This will provide pleasure for the next ten to fifteen years at least. One of our great Grenaches.

Ken Gargett

Contributor at Winepilot

Ken was born and bred in Brisbane, Queensland. He had a non-trendy, perfectly happy childhood, in a family convinced alcohol meant instant condemnation to Hades. But a break fishing on the Great Barrier Reef, and some good wine, started a serious obsession that eventually took over. It did not stop Ken being chastised later for drinking Pol champagne, disgusted he’d drink anything made by a Cambodian dictator. Now, Ken mostly writes on wine, champagne and spirits for various newspapers, magazines and books, but is perhaps best known for his work in The Courier Mail. He also has a little sideline writing on cigars, fishing, travel and food. When not writing, fly-fishing for trout in NZ or bonefish on the flats of Cuba, travelling or smoking cigars, he is no doubt following a variety of sporting teams – the occasionally glorious Queensland Reds rugby, the dysfunctional Washington Redskins, the dodgy Arsenal and especially revels in the world restored to its proper axis with the return of the Ashes to their rightful home.

Wine writer and critic