Terre à Terre Crayères Vineyard Reserve Fumé Blanc 2023
- 93
- $59
- Drink by: 2025-2028
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If the temptation is to chill this wine down low, don’t. You will miss the nuance, the aromatics, the minerality and edge. Fermented and matured in seasoned 660L French demi-muids – hence, the fumé title – the role of oak brings the Sauvignon Blanc accent alive enhanced by a warm textural element. Pea shoot, dill, green herbs, a whisper of lemongrass and ginger joined to citrus and apple, sets the aroma alive. Appears immediately herbal, citrussy and bright with edgy acidity and a wet stone minerality but, wait, it starts to build. There is a depth to this wine that becomes apparent from the mid-palate onwards, offering a lingering lemongrass, gingery spice quality as it builds to the finish.
Jeni Port is one of Australia’s top wine communicators. Based in Melbourne, Jeni created the first wine column in the (then) Sun News-Pictorial before moving over to The Age and becoming that paper’s longest-serving wine writer. Over the years she has written for most Australian wine magazines and these days calls WinePilot home. She is also a Tasting Panel member on the Halliday Wine Companion. She was named Wine Communicator of the Year and Legend of the Melbourne Food and Wine Festival in 2014 and in 2018 Legend of the Vine. She is a founding board member of Australian Women In Wine and is the co-deputy chair of Australia’s Wine List of the Year Awards and China’s Wine List of the Year Awards.
