Tyrrell’s Vat 47 Chardonnay 2023

All fruit is sourced from the Short Flat vineyard, planted in 1968. Quite simply, this is the sexiest Chardonnay I’ve seen from the Hunter Valley in my time — and, more importantly, it can hold its own against any top Chardonnay on the Australian market. Given the strength of the category, that means on the world stage as well. It opens with sugared pomelo segments, white nectarine sorbet, and musk berries. There’s a crackle of sparkler flint over Swiss meringue icing, the most tantalising ribbon of fine acidity, and a delicate mesh of texture. Grated nutmeg melting into warm butter, with dustings of white pepper. The palate carries a fine saline edge that outlines the wine’s plush Chardonnay tactility. It’s convincing in every way and impossible not to swoon over. In case you needed reminding: Hunter Valley Chardonnay is s#! hot. Buy lots, drink often and a simple dinner roll and scoop of butter is all that’s needed.