Vickery Watervale The Reserve Riesling 2019

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Clare Valley Vs Eden Valley riesling . . . what region comes out on top in this traditional and long-running battle for supremacy? Well, both do, of course. However, in this particular battle between the 2019 Vickery Eden Valley and 2019 Watervale rieslings, my heart – and top score – goes to the latter. There’s a brightness, freshness and energy in the Watervale riesling that is quite exciting. It’s looking younger, more vital than its Eden Valley sibling, juicier, too. It’s of a different style to be sure. I would drink the Watervale minus food and bring the Eden Valley out with something nice to accompany its richness.

The Watervale 2019 brings lifted apple blossom spring scents and grapefruit, concentrated Clare-style lime and citrus. There’s the merest hint of age emerging as you work through brisk, bright flavours of custard apple, mandarin skin, a touch of buttered toast and enveloping citrus. There’s a developing complexity here so it’s starting to reveal itself. It will also age well.