Warramunda Estate The Compass Series Marsanne 2016

A blast from the past and a delightful one at that. The technical details do your head in, just a little: six years in oak with good total acidity and low pH figures. All up, an astonishing winegrowing/winemaking feat. It shows in a wine that seems to defy ageing. Mid-gold in colour but looking quite youthful and bright. Jasmine, acacia, daffodil, buttered brioche, beeswax, quince, baked apple . . . the aromas are many and complex. The winemaker refers to the slow oxidation process from time in oak, something that shows most attractively in the warm umami mouthfeel of the wine, its creamy honeyed notes and lifted florals, spiced oak and attractive citrus – mandarin, Meyer lemon. The Marsanne grape is often referred to as a simple, country wine, but it can be so much more. Here is firm evidence of that, of complexity, of stylish fruit, savoury, fresh cut ginger notes, too. Opens up a treat with a few swishes of air or decant to fully reveal its class.