Wills Domain Eightfold Margaret River Chardonnay 2022

I have a wine writing colleague who breaks into ‘She’s So Fine’ by the Easybeats whenever she comes across a mighty good Chardonnay. I reckon this is one of them, definitely worthy of a rousing chorus or two, with its exuberant sherbetty zestiness and citrus punch. Arrives in the glass tight and coiled. A few swishes of air relax the mood, revealing scents of Margs’ distinctive marri blossom, succulent lime, citrus, a hint of tropical fruits with lemon tart/lemon butter complexity – an abiding elegance resides here. There’s also a discreet flint, minerality and a quiet overlay of oak, playing out against gathering middle palate texture. It’s early days in its evolution, but it’s already revealing plenty of Margaret River poise. From an outstanding year, you can bet on a long future. Flavours are warm and summery in nectarine, white peach, citrus. Acidity is lively and firm. She’s so fine . . .

Jeni Port

Wine critic at Winepilot

Jeni Port is one of Australia’s top wine communicators. Based in Melbourne, Jeni created the first wine column in the (then) Sun News-Pictorial before moving over to The Age and becoming that paper’s longest-serving wine writer. Over the years she has written for most Australian wine magazines and these days calls WinePilot home. She is also a Tasting Panel member on the Halliday Wine Companion. She was named Wine Communicator of the Year and Legend of the Melbourne Food and Wine Festival in 2014 and in 2018 Legend of the Vine. She is a founding board member of Australian Women In Wine and is the co-deputy chair of Australia’s Wine List of the Year Awards and China’s Wine List of the Year Awards.

Wine writer and critic