Wines by Johannes Zillinger Velue 2.0 Muskateller 2021

Forget your notion of Muscat as a sweet wine as is found in Moscato d’Asti, or in Sicily’s aromatic Zibibbo, this Austrian Muskateller has an expressive nose of preserved lemon and citrus candy, with sparse notes of nutmeg. The nose gives away quite a grapey aroma, but has a lot more dryness on the palate. There is a nice kick of sourness: a bite of grapefruit, tart lychees, unripe guava, a lanolin waxy contour with a chalky finish that completes the palate. Zesty, refreshing, and utterly drinkable, this Muskateller shows how the aromatic Muscat grown on Loess can be lighter and more restrained – no thick textures here! At 11.5% alc it lends itself as a great aperitif. The underlying minerality and a subtle spiciness in its persisitence makes this so versatile. If not with pickles, you could crack this with a chicken tagine and preserved lemons. Zillinger’s Muskateller is a lot of drinking fun in a bottle.

Liinaa Berry

Liinaa Berry is a Melbourne-based wine critic and consultant with over a decade of experience as a sommelier and wine buyer across Australia and around the world where she has built award-winning wine programs and championed independent producers with conviction. Now focused on reviewing and writing, Liinaa brings a floor-trained palate and commercial insight to her assessments. She is also the Melbourne Ambassador for Star Wine List and serves on the committee of Sommeliers Australia. An advocate for site-driven wines and thoughtful farming, Liinaa is particularly drawn to producers who articulate a clear sense of place. Her tasting philosophy centres on structure, balance and context — always asking not just how a wine tastes, but why it matters.