Wynn’s Coonawarra Estate Black Label Old Vines Shiraz 2022

Sweet black berries rise from the glass followed by red fruits, aniseed and a whisper of woodsy oak before a rush of Aussie bush scents and bay leaf. Old Vines – widely known as Black Label Shiraz – unfolds in the glass with ease, unforced, comfortable in its own skin and almost ageless in style (it reminds me a little of Penfolds St. Henri from that point of view). The back label tells us that “vineyards planted in the 1890s and 1920s form the backbone and define” the wine’s style. Old vines are less vigorous and set smaller crops resulting in a greater concentration in fruit flavour. It’s all here to enjoy in a world black and red fruits, chocolate and spice with a touch of savouriness against a background of easy flowing, elegant tannins.