Yalumba The Octavius Old Vine Shiraz 2021

From some of the oldest Shiraz vines in the world, dating back to 1854. Bordering on opaque, with a deep crimson colour. It’s deep and dark aromatically — fine cedar, graphite, plum, black cherry, blackberry, mocha, liquorice and dark chocolate. A sweeping cut of black pepper spice, salted grilled meat and black olive add savoury appeal, along with dried rosemary and oregano. With time, notes of mushroom, tilled earth and salt crust emerge. There’s a lot going on here, all presented in a neatly elegant aesthetic. The palate has good intensity while remaining lifted and elegant — blackberry, plum, black pepper, earth, dark chocolate and liquorice. Bright acidity slices through and freshens things, while beautifully integrated grainy tannins provide frame and carry to long length. Barossa Shiraz of the highest order, exuding elegance and intensity in tandem. A great release.