Yelland & Papps Vin de Soif Roussanne Grenache Gris 2024

Here we have a declassified blend taken from Yelland & Papps’ single-vineyard program that didn’t quite make the cut for the higher-end offerings but still looked the goods. Quite elegant and fresh in feel straight off, with orchard fruits aplenty. White peach, kumquat, yellow apple and ripe pear lead the charge, with some delicate florals and honeysuckle in support. There’s some gentle nuttiness in the background, barely there. The palate shows some restraint while still feeling bold of fruit and rich of texture, and there’s a cut of tangy citrus attaching to the acidity that drives freshness through the finish. Meyer lemon, white peach, yellow apple, subtle toasty oak, allusions of honey. That acidity cuts the fat and shapes the wine nicely, while a vein of grainy phenolics adds texture. This is nicely done, and a lovely wine with precision and detail at $32.