Yering Station Reserve Chardonnay 2022

Quite the chameleon, this Yarra Valley Chardonnay isn’t about to lay everything out in front of the drinker. This little beauty does a slow reveal, a wine that forces you to keep returning to the glass to explore more. And you’ve gotta love that. It’s quiet to start – and here’s a warning not to overchill – but slowly aromas surface. It’s a youngster, it shows, as citrus, white peach, almond and light spices emerge. It’s reserved more than in name, tightly formed with layers and flavours still evolving, but the palate alerts you to the depths yet to be fully explored, the concentration of summer fruits, quince, citrus and toasted almond and vanilla. There’s real substance and weight here, and what poise. This is a keeper.