Altus/Rise Ascension Cabernet 2023
- 96
- $55
- Drink by: 2026-2041
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Years ago, I remember the wife of a famous Burgundian winemaker telling me that a particular vintage was so good that even her two labradors could have made the wine. Margaret River is blessed with a seemingly endless array of great years, but few have matched the glories of 2023. Perhaps those labradors could have got a gig over here that year (which, in no way, is meant to diminish the achievements of the many wonderful Marg River winemakers who have done such a fantastic job). The wine spent ten months in French oak, 15% of it new, for maturation. An opaque purple/maroon hue, the nose exhibits notes of chocolate, blackberries, tobacco leaves, spices, cassis, cocoa beans, aniseed, soy, smoked meats, cloves and coffee beans. There is serious length here and the intensity of the flavours are maintained throughout. The wine is finally balanced, finishing with very fine if slightly chalky tannins. The length is quite incredible. Enjoy this over the next fifteen years, longer if you wish.
Ken was born and bred in Brisbane, Queensland. He had a non-trendy, perfectly happy childhood, in a family convinced alcohol meant instant condemnation to Hades. But a break fishing on the Great Barrier Reef, and some good wine, started a serious obsession that eventually took over. It did not stop Ken being chastised later for drinking Pol champagne, disgusted he’d drink anything made by a Cambodian dictator. Now, Ken mostly writes on wine, champagne and spirits for various newspapers, magazines and books, but is perhaps best known for his work in The Courier Mail. He also has a little sideline writing on cigars, fishing, travel and food. When not writing, fly-fishing for trout in NZ or bonefish on the flats of Cuba, travelling or smoking cigars, he is no doubt following a variety of sporting teams – the occasionally glorious Queensland Reds rugby, the dysfunctional Washington Redskins, the dodgy Arsenal and especially revels in the world restored to its proper axis with the return of the Ashes to their rightful home.
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