Howard Park Granite Ridge Great Southern Pinot Noir 2020

Pinot noir – like Chardonnay – responds well to putting down roots in granite soils. It tends to lead it into dark, brooding territory, in this instance at least. It’s a walk into the forest, always interesting, with scents of briar, forest floor, black cherry, woody spices, earth, dusty beets. Once again, we see a firmness of structure with a Granite Ridge wine, it’s becoming a recurring theme. Fine in texture, taut (another recurring descriptor with these wines), it opens into a wine of some poise, exploring cranberry, dark cherry, dried herbs, swept leaves, building slowly as it moves across even-handed tannins. Whole bunches have to play a role here somewhere with the streak of prevailing herbs and earth. Deceptive power here together with excellent balance.