Artis Wines Single Vineyard Syrah 2017
- 93
- $45
- Drink by: 2022-2032
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I’ll be honest. I’d so enjoyed the range of whites that I found myself thinking that perhaps whites were going to be the leading lights at Artis. Perhaps the reds would not quite measure up. This wine quickly dismissed any such concerns.
Winemaker Andrew Miller has aimed for a textured, elegant style and this is spot on. The vineyard was originally planted by Brian Croser a couple of decades ago and the clones include those from Tahbilk and Wendouree. So far, so good. The clones might be planted separately, but they are harvested the same day and fermented as a single parcel. 20% of the fruit goes into an open fermenter with the rest destemmed and placed on top. Wild yeasts. Time on skins was seven weeks. Matured in French oak hogsheads, 25% new, for 14 months.
A deep red, there is already the merest hint of maturity on the edge. The nose suggests a savoury style, very much in the Rhone mold. Leather, dry herbs, tobacco leaves, strawberries and warm earth. With good complexity, fine focus and medium length, this has an exciting future ahead.
Ken was born and bred in Brisbane, Queensland. He had a non-trendy, perfectly happy childhood, in a family convinced alcohol meant instant condemnation to Hades. But a break fishing on the Great Barrier Reef, and some good wine, started a serious obsession that eventually took over. It did not stop Ken being chastised later for drinking Pol champagne, disgusted he’d drink anything made by a Cambodian dictator. Now, Ken mostly writes on wine, champagne and spirits for various newspapers, magazines and books, but is perhaps best known for his work in The Courier Mail. He also has a little sideline writing on cigars, fishing, travel and food. When not writing, fly-fishing for trout in NZ or bonefish on the flats of Cuba, travelling or smoking cigars, he is no doubt following a variety of sporting teams – the occasionally glorious Queensland Reds rugby, the dysfunctional Washington Redskins, the dodgy Arsenal and especially revels in the world restored to its proper axis with the return of the Ashes to their rightful home.
