Bindi Dhillon Riesling 2022

Riesling is not the first variety one thinks of when considering the wines from Michael Dhillon and Bindi but, like everything Michael does, it is exemplary. The Dhillon label is a relatively new project from Bindi, to focus on wines other than their traditional efforts, with grapes from neighbouring Macedon vineyards. This Riesling is from the Glenhope Vineyard at Macedon. Fermentation is by way of wild yeasts in a combination of tank and oak barrels, before the wine spends five months on lees. The colour is a shimmering pale lemon with aromas of citrus, florals and spices topped with river stone and grapefruit pith notes. There are hints of early complexity and delicate acidity with fine balance, though the structure reveals the wine as a little broader than we might see with the traditional classic Rieslings from the Clare and Eden Valleys – nothing wrong with that – and the finish lingers with intensity. This is surely a ten year proposition, though will provide plenty of pleasure in its earlier years.