Bonny Doon Vin Gris de Cigare 2020

The move to quirky names and labels can really be put down to one man – Randall Grahm at his Californian winery, Bonny Doon. Vin Gris de Cigare, you are wondering. Well, Randall released his first wine, ‘Le Cigare Volant’ back in the mid 80s (it has since become his flagship) as a tribute to the wines of the Rhône Valley. ‘Le Cigare Volant’ translates as the flying cigar and is a reference to the 1954 law passed in the Rhône prohibiting flying saucers from travelling over the region (apparently it has been a success – there has not been a single one spotted). This wine is the rosé version. Largely Grenache, there are other grapes regularly used including Cinsaut, Clairette Blanche, Grenache Blanc, Mourvèdre and Vermentino. The wine spends time on lees post fermentation, which enhances the texture.

The colour is sun-bronzed pink. A refreshing style with notes of rose petals and gentle red fruits, with strawberries to the fore plus lovely spices including a whiff of pepper. A crème brulée-like texture, this has gun barrel focus, is nicely balanced with decent length. Lovely now and for the next couple of years. Once again, we can revel in the versatility of the wonderful Grenache grape.