Brand & Sons Old Town Single Vineyard Shiraz 2021

Thousands of words have been written about how smell has it all over taste when it comes to appreciating wine. Here is a wine that explains it perfectly, sucks you in from the first sniff with the most arousing aromatics and lifted scent, setting the scene for what follows. There are gentle florals – violet and lavender – ably assisted by spice – pepper, allspice – and enhanced by a vibrant red plum, black cherry fruit intensity. That vibrancy and freshness continues on the palate of this attractive medium-bodied young red. Oak seems to be part of the spice treat with added clove and vanilla layered upon the ripe fruit and sound tannin structure. Old Town Shiraz carries a quiet poise, a degree of elegance that isn’t always apparent in Coonawarra Shiraz which generally tends towards the more direct and confident. Fruit is sourced from old vines grown within the boundary of the Coonawarra township, whereas most Coonawarra fruit stretches further afield. There is something to be said for “Old Town” fruit which I am only now fully appreciating.