Tapanappa Foggy Hill Vineyard Pinot Noir 2025
- 94
- $60
- Drink by: 2026-2036
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2025 was a warmer vintage on the Fleurieu Peninsula, though for Pinot Noir, that is something which is not always to the advantage of the variety. Fortunately, it seems to have overcome that potential handicap. A vintage, perhaps, where generosity trumps elegance. 2,300 dozen made. Winemaker, Brian Croser, notes this vintage as “the driest, warmest and earliest” of his 56-year winemaking career. Fermentation saw no “whole fruit”. The team used their own growing yeast strain with daily hand plunging. Pressing was into barriques, 1/3rd of them new, followed by maturation for eight months. A Pinot Noir that is generous indeed, the colour is a deep crimson, with a russet rim. This comes very much from the savoury end of the spectrum and we have notes of cold tea, mushrooms, animal flesh, leather, delicatessen meats and hints of Balsamic. Well focused and balanced, there is a fine line of acidity running the full journey through to sleek tannins. A lovely lingering finish and the wine should continue to provide pleasure for the next six to ten years.
Ken was born and bred in Brisbane, Queensland. He had a non-trendy, perfectly happy childhood, in a family convinced alcohol meant instant condemnation to Hades. But a break fishing on the Great Barrier Reef, and some good wine, started a serious obsession that eventually took over. It did not stop Ken being chastised later for drinking Pol champagne, disgusted he’d drink anything made by a Cambodian dictator. Now, Ken mostly writes on wine, champagne and spirits for various newspapers, magazines and books, but is perhaps best known for his work in The Courier Mail. He also has a little sideline writing on cigars, fishing, travel and food. When not writing, fly-fishing for trout in NZ or bonefish on the flats of Cuba, travelling or smoking cigars, he is no doubt following a variety of sporting teams – the occasionally glorious Queensland Reds rugby, the dysfunctional Washington Redskins, the dodgy Arsenal and especially revels in the world restored to its proper axis with the return of the Ashes to their rightful home.
