Brokenwood 1899 Old Vines Vineyard Semillon 2022

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This is not strictly the typical Brokenwood single vineyard Sem, being the very first ever release of this wine. The vineyard, 1.17 hectares, is opposite their well-known Oakey Creek Vineyard, one of their very best (still early days but the rumour is that the Oakey Creek Vineyard Semillon will be the ILR for 2018). As always, no oak, no malo, and 11.5% alcohol. The colour is near trout stream clear, but there is a hint of shimmering gold. The nose is tight, taut and restrained. Still very young, this is a refined and delicate style. We have notes of citrus, especially grapefruit, with river stones. There is some crisp green apple acidity with good focus – this is built for the long haul. The palate opens up revealing more than is evident on the nose at the moment. Some serious length here too, balance and deceptive intensity. One for the future, 15 years plus. Both the wine and score have room to improve.

Ken Gargett
Contributor at Winepilot

Ken was born and bred in Brisbane, Queensland. He had a non-trendy, perfectly happy childhood, in a family convinced alcohol meant instant condemnation to Hades. But a break fishing on the Great Barrier Reef, and some good wine, started a serious obsession that eventually took over. It did not stop Ken being chastised later for drinking Pol champagne, disgusted he’d drink anything made by a Cambodian dictator. Now, Ken mostly writes on wine, champagne and spirits for various newspapers, magazines and books, but is perhaps best known for his work in The Courier Mail. He also has a little sideline writing on cigars, fishing, travel and food. When not writing, fly-fishing for trout in NZ or bonefish on the flats of Cuba, travelling or smoking cigars, he is no doubt following a variety of sporting teams – the occasionally glorious Queensland Reds rugby, the dysfunctional Washington Redskins, the dodgy Arsenal and especially revels in the world restored to its proper axis with the return of the Ashes to their rightful home.

Wine writer and critic
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