Brokenwood ILR Reserve Semillon 2014
- 97
- $100
- Drink by: 2023 - 2040
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It is always a joy to spend some time with winelovers from offshore and then offer them an aged Hunter Semillon. Semillon? Most of them look at you like you’ve offered them curdled milk. Once they taste it, however, a different story. They suddenly understand what all the fuss is about. And if I had to pick a current Semillon to show off just how glorious these wines can be, I can’t think of a better example than this one. I understand it is from the Trevena Vineyard.
It is finally showing the merest hint of development. There are notes of stonefruit, citrus, crème brulee, honeycomb. It is pristine, rich and concentrated. The finish just continues to build and build. Richness sneaks in almost unobtrusively and then expands. Backed by bracing acidity, though it never intrudes. Toasty notes. Such a supple and appealing texture. This really does have years to go. An absolute stunner. For me, 97, but I have no doubt that in five or ten years, or even twenty, you’ll be able to add a couple of points. This is compelling evidence as to why Hunter Semillon really must be considered as one of the greatest white wines on the planet. Then compare the price to great White Burgundy and you’ll see what a ridiculous bargain they are.
Ken was born and bred in Brisbane, Queensland. He had a non-trendy, perfectly happy childhood, in a family convinced alcohol meant instant condemnation to Hades. But a break fishing on the Great Barrier Reef, and some good wine, started a serious obsession that eventually took over. It did not stop Ken being chastised later for drinking Pol champagne, disgusted he’d drink anything made by a Cambodian dictator. Now, Ken mostly writes on wine, champagne and spirits for various newspapers, magazines and books, but is perhaps best known for his work in The Courier Mail. He also has a little sideline writing on cigars, fishing, travel and food. When not writing, fly-fishing for trout in NZ or bonefish on the flats of Cuba, travelling or smoking cigars, he is no doubt following a variety of sporting teams – the occasionally glorious Queensland Reds rugby, the dysfunctional Washington Redskins, the dodgy Arsenal and especially revels in the world restored to its proper axis with the return of the Ashes to their rightful home.
