Vigneti Boveri Giacomo Muntà l’è Ruma 2020

Lemon oil, preserved lemon, and sea salt aromas sit in quiet restraint and poise showing class from the get go. Air and temperature unlock a more pithy aesthetic along with a slightly headier lemon blossom bringing the most subtle of sweet notes, and a hard cheese note from the lees. Then of course, the oyster shell minerality takes centre stage. Such that I’m transported to, strangely specifically, the barrel of a six foot wave. I really need to get better at surfing, but I digress. The salty, saline complexity is pure pleasure, and it sits above the fruit like a conductor does a choir – making it all sing. All this before the wine has passed my lips. I’m in. The palate is layered and chalky, with its waves of flavour sliced up by the saline mineral drive. The acid line is drenched in citrus salt appeal, redolent of having indulged in a lick of your margarita salt rim. One recurrent thought, throughout tasting this, is that these wines are so incredibly deserved of their increased attention. Outstanding.

Importer: Ethereal Wines

Tom Kline

Wine Critic at Winepilot

Tom Kline is a wine writer, reviewer, presenter, and educator based in Victoria, Australia. He is the Australian correspondent for the internationally respected publications Jasper Morris Inside Burgundy and Jane Anson Inside Bordeaux, where he highlights the top tier of Australian wine for a global audience. Tom also writes for leading outlets including Decanter (UK), Wine Spectator (US), and Halliday Magazine, among others. An experienced wine show judge and WSET educator, he has authored several consumer-focused wine courses aimed at making wine more accessible and engaging. In 2023, Tom was awarded Best Published Feature Article or Wine Column at the prestigious Wine Communicator Awards, presented by Wine Communicators of Australia.

Wine tasting and writing