Brokenwood ILR Reserve Semillon 2018

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Always one of the superstars of Hunter Valley Semillon, the ILR is never released without at least a good five years ageing under its belt, at which time it is usually just beginning to show the glories that are ahead of it. The vineyard source varies from vintage to vintage, depending on which shines best – so if none measure up, then no ILR. This vintage is from the Oakey Creek vineyard, planted in 1982 and which the team purchased in 2021, although they have been sourcing fruit from it for several decades. This is a cracking ILR, indeed a cracking Hunter Sem, and, while it is drinking impressively now, has two decades of improvement ahead of it. A lemon/green hue. Early days, but already some appealing complexity. There are hints of lemon butter on toast, but surely much more to come. There are notes of figs and stone fruits and limes. Even that whiff of ginger. Immaculate balance, bright acidity, ideal focus and impressive length, this is a wine which has so much more to offer in the coming years. And whilst one can never confirm or deny such matters, it is entirely possible that, as I sit and write up all today’s tasting notes, there is a chilled glass of this very wine next to me. But, as they say, I couldn’t possibly confirm that.

Ken Gargett
Contributor at Winepilot

Ken was born and bred in Brisbane, Queensland. He had a non-trendy, perfectly happy childhood, in a family convinced alcohol meant instant condemnation to Hades. But a break fishing on the Great Barrier Reef, and some good wine, started a serious obsession that eventually took over. It did not stop Ken being chastised later for drinking Pol champagne, disgusted he’d drink anything made by a Cambodian dictator. Now, Ken mostly writes on wine, champagne and spirits for various newspapers, magazines and books, but is perhaps best known for his work in The Courier Mail. He also has a little sideline writing on cigars, fishing, travel and food. When not writing, fly-fishing for trout in NZ or bonefish on the flats of Cuba, travelling or smoking cigars, he is no doubt following a variety of sporting teams – the occasionally glorious Queensland Reds rugby, the dysfunctional Washington Redskins, the dodgy Arsenal and especially revels in the world restored to its proper axis with the return of the Ashes to their rightful home.

Wine writer and critic
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