Hewitson Old Garden Vineyard Mourvèdre 2022

Planted in 1853, these ungrafted (own roots) Mourvèdre vines are believed to be among the oldest – if not, the oldest – on earth. As such, winemaking to a large degree walks a delicate path, successfully as it turns out. The complexity and beauty of old vine fruit is well-sustained and enhanced in this lovely wine which hints of the land where it is grown. Violet, lavender florals with flashes of pepper, sage, fennel and oregano gather on the palate around a centrepiece of ripe plum, wild raspberry and bramble. It is nicely enhanced by background chocolate and vanillin oak and earthy herbals. Mourvèdre spices are at the top of their game, so engaging and fresh. Nicely sustained to the finish. Lovely.

Jeni Port

Wine critic at Winepilot

Jeni Port is one of Australia’s top wine communicators. Based in Melbourne, Jeni created the first wine column in the (then) Sun News-Pictorial before moving over to The Age and becoming that paper’s longest-serving wine writer. Over the years she has written for most Australian wine magazines and these days calls WinePilot home. She is also a Tasting Panel member on the Halliday Wine Companion. She was named Wine Communicator of the Year and Legend of the Melbourne Food and Wine Festival in 2014 and in 2018 Legend of the Vine. She is a founding board member of Australian Women In Wine and is the co-deputy chair of Australia’s Wine List of the Year Awards and China’s Wine List of the Year Awards.

Wine writer and critic