Brokenwood IV-Mendoza Chardonnay 2023

For the first time since 2016, the team have considered the fruit here – their vineyard neighbours Giaconda in Beechworth, so that alone should excite all Chardy lovers – of sufficient quality to make what they call their “Supa-Chardonnay” (clearly, education is not a priority in the Hunter – how hard is it to spell ‘super’?). Whole bunch pressing, wild yeasts, a combination of 500-litre puncheons and 228-litre barriques, all French and 40% new, with a further nine months’ maturation. Basically, the team have combined a fantastic vineyard giving quality fruit in an excellent year with their own winemaking skills and innovation, and come up with a cracker. The colour here is a gleaming pale gold. This is already exhibiting significant complexity and is a beautifully crafted Chardonnay with a dazzling mix of elegance and intensity. There is quality oak here but integration is proceeding exquisitely. There are notes of smoky stone fruits, grapefruit, cashews, figs, peaches and cashews. A seamless style with a decadent texture, there is fine acidity, superb balance, excellent length and that intensity never wavers. An eight to ten year proposition.