Brokenwood Semillon 2020

There was a time when Brokenwood was the new kid on the block, jostling for a place at the big boys’ table with Lindeman’s, McWilliams, Tyrrells and Rothbury. Tyrrells is the only one left of the old guard, still at the top of their game, though there are plenty of others keen to add their name. Brokenwood gained its place many years ago and does not look like conceding it any time soon. 

These days, they offer their popular standard (this one, in case that was not obvious), single vineyards and the pinnacle, their ILR Reserve. There are aged offerings mixed throughout. Of course, vintage conditions in the Hunter mean that not all wines are available every year. 2020 will not go down as one of the greats – while years like 2013, 2014, 2017, 2018 and 2019 are all contenders. 

Despite vintage difficulties, they have come up with a very fine semillon from ’20. This is limpid, trout stream clear. Youthful and with some gentle ripeness on offer. Some crisp green apple acidity. Fresh and bright. Citrus to be found here. A whiff of grapefruit? Sure, it will age for a few years but for me, this is a vintage I’d drink while waiting for the stars to develop. And I’d drink this in preference to almost any sauvignon blanc you care to name. It is incomprehensible that top Hunter Semillon barely registers as a footnote before the Sauvalanche.