Castelli Estate Porongurup Riesling 2018

A museum release, in this year from one of its two main Riesling sources, their Porongurup vineyard. After a good five and a bit years in the bottle, there’s a lot of life left in this ripping wine, the colour now finding a light touch of gold, the nose displaying a gradually deepening sense of baked lemon and lime with Makrit (Kaffir) leaf, while in the mouth it’s all about heightened citrus flavour and pith with bright acidity reverberating through to an accomplished finish. No need here to consider the mature vintage as a game-changer – there’s still an exciting and youthful energy at its core.