Clover Hill Blanc de Blancs ‘Cuvee Exceptionnelle’ 2014

If one may open with the bottom line, this is a stunning sparkler and certainly the pick of the range. Yes, we don’t compare our locals to Champagnes but if we did, there’d be plenty of Champagne houses more than a touch nervous to see a wine of this quality and finesse selling at the price of a lesser NV (around $65). This sits with Australia’s finest. By the maker’s own admission, 2014 was an outstanding vintage. Hence, they kept separate a few small parcels of Chardonnay to create this cracker which was disgorged July of this year after five and a half years on lees. 

This is an intense, balanced, complex and stunning local fizz. Concentrated and yet elegant. Lemon rind notes, grapefruits and florals. A tiny hint of truffle on the finish. Fabulous length. Superb now, but it has many years ahead of it.