Clover Hill Blanc de Blancs ‘Cuvee Exceptionnelle’ 2014
- 96
- $65
- Drink by: 2020 - 2030
Share
If one may open with the bottom line, this is a stunning sparkler and certainly the pick of the range. Yes, we don’t compare our locals to Champagnes but if we did, there’d be plenty of Champagne houses more than a touch nervous to see a wine of this quality and finesse selling at the price of a lesser NV (around $65). This sits with Australia’s finest. By the maker’s own admission, 2014 was an outstanding vintage. Hence, they kept separate a few small parcels of Chardonnay to create this cracker which was disgorged July of this year after five and a half years on lees.
This is an intense, balanced, complex and stunning local fizz. Concentrated and yet elegant. Lemon rind notes, grapefruits and florals. A tiny hint of truffle on the finish. Fabulous length. Superb now, but it has many years ahead of it.
Ken was born and bred in Brisbane, Queensland. He had a non-trendy, perfectly happy childhood, in a family convinced alcohol meant instant condemnation to Hades. But a break fishing on the Great Barrier Reef, and some good wine, started a serious obsession that eventually took over. It did not stop Ken being chastised later for drinking Pol champagne, disgusted he’d drink anything made by a Cambodian dictator. Now, Ken mostly writes on wine, champagne and spirits for various newspapers, magazines and books, but is perhaps best known for his work in The Courier Mail. He also has a little sideline writing on cigars, fishing, travel and food. When not writing, fly-fishing for trout in NZ or bonefish on the flats of Cuba, travelling or smoking cigars, he is no doubt following a variety of sporting teams – the occasionally glorious Queensland Reds rugby, the dysfunctional Washington Redskins, the dodgy Arsenal and especially revels in the world restored to its proper axis with the return of the Ashes to their rightful home.
